Non-invasive peptides could replace Botox

Iveta Ramonaite, Dental Tribune International

Tue. 25. February 2025

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SEOUL, South Korea: Reducing dynamic wrinkles is a major focus in dermatology, owing to its impact on both appearance and psychological well-being. While botulinum toxin (Botox) injections have long been the preferred method for addressing this concern, their invasive nature and strict regulations on use and dosage have led researchers to explore safer, non-invasive alternatives. In a recent review, researchers from South Korea investigated the efficacy and safety of topical peptides in this regard. They found that certain peptides hold promise for reducing wrinkles and improving skin health. However, challenges such as low absorption and a lack of long-term validation remain key obstacles to widespread adoption.

The rise of peptides as Botox alternatives

Lead author Trang Thi Minh Nguyen, a PhD candidate at Kyung Hee University in Seoul, told Dental Tribune International (DTI) that most topical anti-ageing treatments prioritise hydration and collagen production rather than directly addressing muscle contraction like Botox, which is the leading treatment for dynamic wrinkles and is supported by decades of clinical research. The disadvantages of Botox are that it must be administered by a clinician and carries potential risks, including ptosis and facial asymmetry. Anti-ageing peptide treatments also address muscle contraction but can be applied topically at home, eliminating the risk of pain, bruising or infection, and offer a safer approach.

Additionally, peptides provide more gradual and natural-looking results, avoiding the frozen face effect of Botox that some may find undesirable. Besides relaxing muscles, certain peptides support long-term skin health by stimulating collagen production, providing broader anti-ageing benefits. Although Botox delivers faster and more marked results, peptides are gaining traction among those seeking a safer, low-risk alternative with subtle, progressive results.

According to the review, one study found that peptides such as Argireline and SYN-AKE can reduce wrinkle depth by 49% and up to 52%, respectively, within four weeks. In comparison, evidence shows that Botox can reduce wrinkle visibility by up to 80% within just one week, and the majority of Botox users in clinical trials have reported noticeable improvement in dynamic wrinkles lasting between two and six months. Since peptides as Botox alternatives are a relatively new area of research, further studies are needed to confirm their long-term efficacy and safety in anti-ageing treatments.

Market expansion and research challenges

Lead author Trang Thi Minh Nguyen. (Image: Trang Thi Minh Nguyen)

According to the review, consumer demand for non-invasive alternatives is driving the global market for anti-ageing products, which a market forecast has projected will reach approximately US$120 billion (€120.6 billion^*) by 2030.¹ In comparison, the global Botox market is expected to grow to around US$12 billion (€11.4 billion^**) by 2030.²

Although they are growing in popularity, non-invasive treatments for dynamic wrinkles continue to face challenges that hinder their widespread adoption in the beauty market. A constraint with topical agents is their limited ability to penetrate deeply enough to affect muscle activity, reducing their efficacy to approximately 30%–50% wrinkle reduction over four weeks, according to the review. Furthermore, topical anti-ageing products for dynamic wrinkles face less strict regulatory control than invasive procedures do. As a result, many products with unverified claims may enter the market, potentially misleading consumers and undermining confidence in non-invasive products.

Advancing peptide research and application

Nguyen explained that one key advantage of peptides is their reversibility. Unlike Botox, which blocks nerve signals to muscles for three to four months, peptides work gradually, and their effects fade within weeks if discontinued. This makes them a more flexible option, allowing adjustments without long-term commitment.

Peptides also align with the clean beauty movement, since they do not require stabilisers such as human serum albumin, are biodegradable and utilise non-toxic ingredients, reducing concerns about potential toxin accumulation or spread beyond the application site. Moreover, plant-based peptides such as Myoxinol, derived from Hibiscus esculentus, exert a natural Botox-like effect.

“Clean beauty is all about non-toxic, sustainable and skin-friendly ingredients, and peptides fit perfectly into that trend. Unlike Botox, which requires injections and stabilisers, peptides offer a topical, biocompatible alternative,” Nguyen told DTI.

“Clean beauty is all about non-toxic, sustainable and skin-friendly ingredients, and peptides fit perfectly into that trend.”

Discussing future trends, Nguyen commented that several key innovations in non-invasive wrinkle treatments are expected over the next ten years. Improved delivery systems, such as those employing nanotechnology and dissolving microneedles, will help peptides overcome absorption issues and enhance their effectiveness. Combination treatments will likely become more common, and peptides will be paired with light therapy, micro-current stimulation or retinoids to boost their results. Additionally, artificial intelligence-powered skin diagnostics will enable personalised peptide blends based on individual skin types and ageing patterns.

The authors of the study recommended that further research include diverse demographics to ensure broad efficacy and that it investigate the combination of peptides with mechanical stimulation for enhanced anti-wrinkle effects. Additionally, as many non-invasive treatments lack insurance coverage, the cost-effectiveness of peptide treatments must be assessed.

The future of peptides

Research suggests that peptides represent a promising alternative to Botox. There is significant potential for market growth, and future advancements might help tackle current limitations. With expanded clinical research and continued innovations, peptide-based topical solutions could reshape the future of anti-ageing treatments.

The study, titled “Sustainable dynamic wrinkle efficacy: Non-invasive peptides as the future of Botox alternatives”, was published online on 11 July 2024 in Cosmetics.

Editorial note:

^* Calculated on the OANDA platform for 25 August 2022.

^** Calculated on the OANDA platform for 27 November 2024.

A complete list of references can be found here.